CF 5.10... weird accent LED Issue

[scottjua]

Ok I've double and triple checked my connections.

I've even tried TWO separate LEDs thinking the first was dead.

I have a CF 5.10 and two accent LEDs. The one on pad 1 works perfectly with just a solder bridge on the resistor pad

Pad 2 (also solder bridged) does not come on AT ALL. I even tried a different pad (3) and nothing.

Am I missing something in the config file to enable more than one accent LED?

This is the first CF I've wired, and while the parameters in the config files are different to the PC 2.0... I just can't figure it.

What am I missing?

Is it because I bridged the resistor pads with solder instead of an smd?

Surely not if the #1 pad is working fine...

anyone?

[erv]

pad 1 isn't different from the others and I can't think you have magically 6 other ones that are just "dead" or not soldered (on the core MCU).

what is the (measured) forward voltage of your leds ?
have you measured the voltage on the accent led output pads with no led attached ?

the leds.txt file is working just the same. Just remember the RIGHT MOST digit is corresponding to the LED1 as it's represented as a binary number (lowest rank is on the right). It's a common mistake to change the 2 digits that are just next to the = sign which are LED6 and 7, not LED1 and LED2.

[erv]

pad 1 isn't different from the others and I can't think you have magically 6 other ones that are just "dead" or not soldered (on the core MCU). Well LED1 has also the special accent modes (pulsing etc) so it could be working on its own without being affected by the led sequencer, which would explain why you have led1 fine and not the others.

what is the (measured) forward voltage of your leds ?
have you measured the voltage on the accent led output pads with no led attached ?

the leds.txt file is working just the same. Just remember the RIGHT MOST digit is corresponding to the LED1 as it's represented as a binary number (lowest rank is on the right). It's a common mistake to change the 2 digits that are just next to the = sign which are LED6 and 7, not LED1 and LED2.

[scottjua]

I don't have a way to measure that right now... no tool at my disposal.

The leds text file is the default one... not sure if that helps.

I've tried on all the pads now...

[scottjua]

not sure if this will help:


// Blinking LED configuration file
pli=0
random=0
acc1mode=1
acc1pulsed=99
acc1pulsel=4000

on00=0000001
on01=0000011
on02=0000111
on03=0001111
on04=0011111
on05=0111111
on06=1111111

off00=1010101
off01=0101010
off02=1010101
off03=0101010
off04=1010101
off05=0101010
off06=1010101

s00=0000000
d00=50
s01=0000001
d01=50
s02=0000010
d02=50
s03=0000100
d03=50
s04=0001000
d04=50
s05=0010000
d05=50
s06=0100000
d06=50
s07=1000000
d07=50
s08=1000001
d08=50
s09=1000010
d09=50
s10=1000100
d10=50
s11=1001000
d11=50
s12=1010000
d12=50
s13=1100000
d13=50
s14=1100001
d14=50
s15=1100010
d15=50
s16=1100100
d16=50
s17=1101001
d17=50
s18=1110010
d18=50
s19=1110100
d19=50
s20=1111001
d20=50
s21=1111010
d21=50
s22=1111100
d22=50
s23=1111101
d23=50
s24=1111111
d24=800
s25=1111110
d25=250
s26=1111100
d26=250
s27=1111000
d27=250
s28=1110000
d28=250
s29=1100000
d29=250
s30=1000000
d30=250
s31=0000000
d31=800

[scottjua]

Anyone have ideas?

[JANGO FETT]

See if the led is wired backwards.
What's under the PEX 2.0? To protect against shorts?
Are the connections between the MCU legs and the accent pads okay?

[Simpi-Gon Sims]

See if the led is wired backwards.
What's under the PEX 2.0? To protect against shorts?
Are the connections between the MCU legs and the accent pads okay?

Ya, check the most simple things first. It either sounds like a reversed polarity thing or a short somewhere. I'd highly recommend picking up a multi-meter. You can find them for pretty cheap online.

[scottjua]

See if the led is wired backwards.
What's under the PEX 2.0? To protect against shorts?
Are the connections between the MCU legs and the accent pads okay?

Under the Pex is a small piece of VHB to keep it in place and off the MCU so it floats and can't touch anything.

All soldering is good... the best I've ever done personally. Not a stray molecule of solder. ^_^

BUT I got to the crux of it... the darn LED had flipped leads. I tested the batch I had and TWO were like that... consequently the TWO I tried. All of the others worked the way they should with the short lead being the -/grnd.

What the heck!?

Anyway, flipping the leads worked... makes no sense how that can happen...

Ya, check the most simple things first. It either sounds like a reversed polarity thing or a short somewhere. I'd highly recommend picking up a multi-meter. You can find them for pretty cheap online.

I will be picking one up SOON! ^_^

[Simpi-Gon Sims]

Ya, check the most simple things first. It either sounds like a reversed polarity thing or a short somewhere. I'd highly recommend picking up a multi-meter. You can find them for pretty cheap online.

I will be picking one up SOON! ^_^

Glad you got it worked out! One of the most important things I've learned about this industry/hobby is that you should always check the most simple things first! 

Multimeter: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Back-Bright-Digital-Voltmeter-Ohm-Ohmmeter-Ampmeter-Multimeter-Tester-/230793315445?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bc5a8475#ht_4049wt_1029

[erv]

yep, as indicated in the manual, a multimeter is really needed (like $9-20 like simpi posted). Not to debug CF/PC per say but I think your issue points in an obvious manner what can require to be checked.