CF v5 wiring confusion

[metalskin]

Hi All

This is my first attempt at wiring a CF v5 board and I'm a bit confused on where to solder the Accent LED that comes with Master Yoda's DIY chassis kit.  I was able to pick one of his chassis this last go around.

Does the Accent LED go on the regulated 3.3v pad that is indicated on the CF manual? And would i still need to resistor it even if its regulated, the DIY kit comes with two resistors or are they supplied for non regulated soundboards?

Also what specs are the Accent  LED's? what type should i look for for adding additional LEDS? This is all going into a vintage Graflex V.

Any help would be appreciated.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I'm not familiar with Master Yoda's kits, but if you do use the 3.3V pad, any resistor you use would be based on that. If it's blue, I doubt you would need it.

If you were to use one of the regular accent pads, you would definitely need to use the resistor. Also don't forget to bridge the connectors where the tiny SMD resistor would go (check the manual). The LED in the kit should have specs for it somewhere, or you can search to see if you can find the specs in any of Master Yoda's posts. In general, small blue LED's that I have run across usually take about 3.3 volts and run @ 20mA - 30mA

As far as the specs for additional LED's, see what the specs are and then you resistor based on that. 

[LUKE SKYWALKER]

You can use the leds that come with the DIY kit without any resistor as long as you use the regulated accent led pads
he uses 3.3 v leds so that a cleaner build is possible without the use of resistors.

[metalskin]

Thanks guys for the respond.

@Forgetful Jedi Knight:

  yeah on the none regulated pad i was going to use resistors.


@EgonMcGregor:

 That's what i was figuring it would be, but wasn't absolutely sure, the Cf manual show the regulated LED pad1 with a resistor on it, at least i think that's what it's showing.

[MH]

Thanks guys for the respond.

@Forgetful Jedi Knight:

  yeah on the none regulated pad i was going to use resistors.


@EgonMcGregor:

 That's what i was figuring it would be, but wasn't absolutely sure, the Cf manual show the regulated LED pad1 with a resistor on it, at least i think that's what it's showing.

the accent LED pads 1-7 on the CF need a resistor on the pads for them to work OR you can just bridge the pads since the LEDs are rated at 3.3V.

[metalskin]

@MH:

Ok, Thanks MH.  How many Accent LEDs should a Graflex saber have not including the Blue Accent LED that Master Yoda provides in his DIY crystal chassis kit?

I'd like to get everything soldered and sorted before i place the CF into the chamber.

[QUI-GON JINN]

How many Accent LEDs should a Graflex saber have not including the Blue Accent LED that Master Yoda provides in his DIY crystal chassis kit?

As many as you want,  it's your saber.   

[metalskin]

I know 

I asked mostly for reference, its my first build and its hard to tell what lights up or how many LEDs are put in.  Graflex sabers are less conspicuous when it comes to LEDs, everything is usually in the crystal chamber, the DIY kits just comes with one so just wanted to find out what other accent LEDs i could put on it to be able to take full advantage of the CF power.

I have my main LED and FOC setup, just really looking at lighting up the crystal chamber properly and maybe having the vader breathing effect

[QUI-GON JINN]

I think Yoda's crystal core chassis might only allow for one led for the crystal chamber,  but I've seen other people use the bubble srtip on an ANH model *cough* LDM*cough* before and it looked really good to me.  Now,  yours being a Graflex V,  I'm not sure where else you could put extra accent leds that wouldn't detract too much from the authentic or canon look if that's what you want.

[metalskin]

Thanks QUI-GON,

Just gonna use the one

[LUKE SKYWALKER]

there are actually 2 led's that are used for the crystal chamber. One for the power crystal in the bottom plate under the power gates and one that powers the optical line which goes to the top focusing crystal! So better bridge led pads 1 & 2  

here is the link to my first DIY build: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=31996.0
hope that helps a little bit 

[metalskin]

Darn!

Your right Egon, i totally forgot about the power crystal LED. My brain is all noodles like my wiring trying to figure out where everything goes.

So when you say bridge led pads 1 & 2, do you mean just add a jumper across pad 1 & 2 or do  you mean add a resistor? and this is where the power crystal led solders into CF? on the non-regulated accent pad row?
Is the Optical line led, is it OK to solder onto the 3.3v regulated pad?

Also there are 2 resistors that came with the DIY kit, those are for the the power crystal and optical line led?

[erv]

just a note : the accent pads aren't "regulated". On the V5 they have max 18 mA available. If the Vf of the accent led you try to light up with the pad is really close to 3.3V, you'll probably won't need a resistor. Yoda told me he doesn't use any on his blue and white accent leds.

[metalskin]

Thanks Erv,

Appreciate your input  

Edit: Erv, so the 3.3v regulated pad near the switch pads, is no different than the non-regulated pad except for the voltage regulation on it, so does that mean i can put any type of LED there than if i were to put one on the non- regulated ones? so like for Yoda's chassis, has  two LEDs, i can either run both on the non-regulated pads or run one LED on the 3.3v pad and the other Led on the the non-regulated pads?

Sorry for being redundant.

[erv]

I lacked of accuracy, sorry. The 3.3V pad is straight of the voltage regulator and is (therefore) voltage regulated. I suppose you can grab 10-20 mA on that one if you need to light up an anti vandal switch for instance.
The accent pads have a 3.3V voltage that is "quite regulated" as directly inherited from the core voltage regulator (on which the 3.3V pad is connected) however the pass thru a lot of electronics inside the MCU and voltage might drop a little if you try to pump a lot of current. The voltage is quite constant, but my point was that the current on those accent pads isn't regulated, it's just somehow limited and it's not good to have the MCU limit the current by itself. If you're really close to direct drive that won't matter,
but if you have a big difference between 3.3V and the accent led Vf (like for a red one at 1.9v) it will make the MCU "suffering" to limit the current. That's why it "works" without a resistor for several blue and white leds but you might still need a resistor for some greens and for sure for reds.