LED String Blades. Where to start?

[The_Night]

So i've been thinking about doing an LED string saber for one of my next projects. Only issue with that is I've never done any LED string work before.  I've looked through Easter57 and Slothfurnace's tutorials on how to make the strings themselves and i get that. The part i don't quite get is how you wire the string so that it ramps and how to make the blade removeable. I assume it is similar to the EL tutorial on TCSS forums with some form of jack that plugs in, but i'm not sure what kind or how to make one. any links or anything on that you guys have? i searched around but didn't find anything on that portion.  Or can you not easily make string blades removeable and still ramp?  Any push in the right direction would be appreciated 

*oh, one more quesion as well. where can i source the right sized foam diffuser material without destroying FX sabers for them?

[JANGO FETT]

Next section down. 

http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=13487.0

[The_Night]

yeah, i'd seen that one. had to pull part two from the depths of the Data Sheet section. lol

For anyone else looking for it:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=13553.0

http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=13567.0

[The_Night]

ok....

so i found and read the other two parts. im still not quite sure if its possible to have both? lol
it seems from the tutorials like it is one or the other. since using the jack means having all the negatives go into one negative they would just act as one large LED right?

[JANGO FETT]

You can do both. Look at the connectors MR and Hasbro uses.
As to the foam diffusers, just post a wanted ad for an MR or Hasbro blade. Sabersmiths usually have usually have a dozen or so sitting around left over from conversions.

[JANGO FETT]

You could use this type of connector too.
http://www.mpja.com/DIN-Connector-Female-for-Cable-7-Pin/productinfo/5614+PL/
1. positive
2,3,4,5,6,7 negative

[scottjua]

Do you have a string blade soundboard?

[The_Night]

awesome, thanks a bunch Jango 

yeah, i've got a few MR boards laying around. nothin fancy but works just fine

[slothfurnace]

awesome, thanks a bunch Jango 

yeah, i've got a few MR boards laying around. nothin fancy but works just fine

As far as I know MR/Hasbro boards are the only readily available boards with scrolling LED string blade support.

That may change once / if the CF-LS becomes produced in more quantities.

[scottjua]

There's also hyperdyne. I have one for sale here on the forums, but you'll need the driver from hyperdyne... which they have in stock.

Personally I really like the hyperdyne board, just don't know enough about it and what it would take to get a LED strp saber up.

Might be worth looking into though.

[The_Night]

There's also hyperdyne. I have one for sale here on the forums, but you'll need the driver from hyperdyne... which they have in stock.

Personally I really like the hyperdyne board, just don't know enough about it and what it would take to get a LED strp saber up.

Might be worth looking into though.

i've seen those around. i just never worked with one and it's always just been easier to work with the boards i know. plus i've got some here anyways and i personally like the MR boards

[eastern57]

Hi.  A couple things:

The underlying intent for the removeable string tut was to DIY-mount the connector hardware with (relatively) easy to find parts.  But you can certainly replace the jack and plug with Multi-pin plugs, DIN plugs, etc.  SlothNorris has some good ones, so does Erv.  The only stipulation is that it should have at least 7 pins.  One for each positive segment and the one negative

The Hyperdyne drivers are designed to use 11.1V and drive the 150-LED Hyperblades - WAY more than the DIY strings.

The newer Hasbro boards are different and have a different scrolling effect.  For example, the Kit Fisto fades on segment 1, and scrolls slower.  Also, they have the "kill" function which disables the activation when disconnected, so you'll have to MacGuy-fu a workaround.

I haven't used Hasbro boards in years, but they used to get fried with anything more than 6 volts.  Since then 7.4v packs seem to have become the new standard.  So just use a regulator so you don't *popsizzlesmoke* your board.

I'm sure there's a way to use the hasbro board scrolling effect with a PC, CF, or any other sound board.  We used to look for hacks like that all the time at TCSS... I'd bet that there's still old diagrams that would work for something like this.