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Author Topic: Looking for User Manual and/or software for Petit Crouton (and guidance!)  (Read 494 times)

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Offline DurinIV

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So, I just got my new saber (I'm not allowed to say anything more than "It's a Redeemer, built by a sabersmith I'm not allowed to name") with a 'LightMeat' PC-U soundboard (I THINK it's a 1.6, but I'm not positive, and the smith can't remember if he ordered the board before or after the change from 1.6 to 2.0), and a 9W RGB LED with a custom color-mix to the perfect Obi-Wan pale blue.
In any case, the sensitivities on the board need tweaking. Getting a 'swing' out of it is kinda difficult (say... 1 in 8 or so), though I can get a 'clash' fairly easily (4 out of 5). In any case, it turns out that I had the wrong size Micro-adapter, and it'll take a few days for the proper size to arrive. During that time, I need to learn as much as I can about the Petit Crouton's config.txt.
 Is there an Editor Application, or should I just use MS Notepad? It IS a .txt file, after all...
 I found a PDF Manual for the 2.0, does anyone know where I can find a Manual for a 1.6 (I'm running under the assumption that one existed at some point)?
 Is there anything else I should or should not tweak? I don't want to go anywhere near the color-mix, as it's PERFECT just the way it is.
 Anyone have Tips, Tricks, Hints, or Warnings, since I'm going inside the hilt anyway; anything I should look for and/or fear seeing?
Thanks, and I hope to hear from somebody soon...!
Just a Padawan trying to make the best lightsaber I can... :p

Offline JANGO FETT

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MS notepad to make changes to the config.txt

Quote
Motion & Gesture detection parameters :
Swings and clashes are separated using 3 thresholds. A swing motion must exceed ls
(low swing) and must remain under hs (high swing). A clash must simply exceed lc
(low clash).
It’s important to maintain a dead-zone between hs and lc to maximize the quality of
the motion detection.
Default parameters have been setup for you and usually, only the “i” parameter has to
be touched up.

However, some special cases can be considered:
_ The saber is not sensitive enough to the swing (placement in the hilt too close
to the spinning center, spinning style etc) : decrease parameter ls of one point
of two. Don’t decrease ls too much or undesired swing sounds will be
triggered.
_ When the saber cuts the air too fast, the swing is not triggered (it’s in the
dead-zone). Increase a little bit parameter hs(or reduce the speed of your
swings).
_ The saber often produces a clash sound when the user executes a swing:
parameter hs is probably too high and too close to parameter lc. If the clash
sensitivity is correct, decrease parameter hs.
_ The saber is not sensitive enough to clashes: decrease parameter lc.
_ The user wants the clash to happen only when blade is smacked very hard:
increase lc

Increase the "i" setting, and the saber will be more sensitive.

Offline GENERAL GRIEVOUS

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If you need it still (after Jango's excellent post), PM me your email address and I will make sure you get it.

Offline scottjua

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Odd... same here... PC 1.6 how do you change the clash sensitivity??

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Offline DurinIV

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Thanks for your input, guys! It is helpful, though somewhat confusing (I'll figure it out when I'm feeling a little more alert). I suppose I need to tack on additional queries:
 is that an excerpt from the v1.6 Manual? I found a v2.0 Manual, but I don't know if there have been any significant and relevant changes between v1.6 and v2.0...?
 what are the minimum- and maximum-values for the individual parameters, and what are the settings YOU recommend?
 can I go ahead and use the RICE Application with a card-reader, or is a RICE Port required (which I don't have)?
 what is a good adhesive or other means of securing the soundboard inside the hilt? my soundboard isn't LOOSE, per se, but it is UNSECURED.
 
Just a Padawan trying to make the best lightsaber I can... :p

Offline MH

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Scottjua...you cant adjust the sensitivity of the clash sensor in config of the 1.6 because its a mechanical sensor.  There are a couple of things you can do though.  First if you do not want to unsolder anything you can thump the sensor (its the one on the end) a few times to loosen it up.  What I recommend and do myself is take the sensor off the board, solder a couple of leads onto it and connect the leads on the board.  I usually make the leads only about 2 inches long but that gives you room to have the sensor move freely and clash easier.

DurinIV...that was from the 1.6 manual.  Its pretty easy.  Just raise the "i" value in the config.txt file.  With the new sensor being so tight I usually go up close to 60 and on some (depending on where it is in the hilt) I go over 60.

You have to have a separate cable and port for RICE.  Its soldered on the bottom of the board.

Thanks,
Michael

Offline DurinIV

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Okay, the edge of the soundboard that the SD Micro card slides out of is about an inch from the butt-end; what parameters would you recommend I set to what values?
Also, how do you recommend I secure the soundboard inside the hilt? I was thinking of using a small amount of silicone (like plumbing-sealant); my reasoning is that it's very heat-resistant, non-conductive, and has some springiness to it that should protect the board from severe shocks (impacts) without negating the impacts that would trigger the Clash. Good Idea? Bad Idea? I'm new to this, so please feel free to treat me like an idiot... :p
Just a Padawan trying to make the best lightsaber I can... :p

Offline DurinIV

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Example of my idiocy: I just got enough of a look at the board to see it marked "Petit Crouton 1.5".
Does anybody need to revise their advice in light of this new information? Does anybody have a v1.5 Manual they can email to me?
Also, the edge of the soundboard that the MicroSD slides out of is actually between .5" and .75" from the butt end of the hilt - I'd post a pic, but I keep getting an error whenever I try to do so; "cannot access attachment path" or suchlike...
Just a Padawan trying to make the best lightsaber I can... :p

Offline MH

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Okay, the edge of the soundboard that the SD Micro card slides out of is about an inch from the butt-end; what parameters would you recommend I set to what values?
Also, how do you recommend I secure the soundboard inside the hilt? I was thinking of using a small amount of silicone (like plumbing-sealant); my reasoning is that it's very heat-resistant, non-conductive, and has some springiness to it that should protect the board from severe shocks (impacts) without negating the impacts that would trigger the Clash. Good Idea? Bad Idea? I'm new to this, so please feel free to treat me like an idiot... :p

sorry that is one of those things you will just have to play with.  Raise i a little and test it.  If its not responsive enough raise it a little more etc.  You really have to dial it in to your own tastes.

I use 3m double sided tape.  I use the kind designed for automotive molding and such.  It works great and doesn't get brittle like some of the double sided tape does.

the board may say 1.5 but its possible its a 1.6.  The 1.5 is only the hardware revision and was never updated physically.  The 1.6 was just a firmware updated that included RICE and FoC.  The manuals are the same except for the part added.


Offline DurinIV

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That's encouraging news re: v1.5 to v1.6 firmware-change; it's probably a 1.6 then.
In any case, do you have a v1.5 or v1.6 manual? I'm thinking that my v2.0 manual is likely to get me into trouble of some kind...
That said, please allow me to thank you once more for all your help - it's GREATLY appreciated!
Should anyone happen to have a PDF of the v1.5 or v1.6 manual, it would be an immense help if you could forward me a copy at
Hammered.metal@gmail.com
Thanks again!
Just a Padawan trying to make the best lightsaber I can... :p

Offline Lord Bane

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I just emailed you the PC 1.6 manual. Along with what MH suggested to do is go into the config file and near the top is ls and hs which will change the sensitivity for the board. the lower you go the more sensitive. I usually leave the hs alone and lower the ls which by default is set to 12 and bring it down to about 6 or lower. Try that and see what happens, it seems to help me.

Bane
« Last Edit: April 14, 2012, 08:56:40 PM by Lord Bane »

Online Simpi-Gon Sims

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I use 3m double sided tape.  I use the kind designed for automotive molding and such.  It works great and doesn't get brittle like some of the double sided tape does.


^THIS^   ;)
"It's not broken, it's a feature."

Offline MH

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for anyone else looking...

http://mandysbabies.com/PC/PC1.6manual.pdf

right click save as please.


 




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