Over the next few weeks i hope to complete my Luke Hero saber from Susan and Daren at JQ Sabers.
I am going to be posting a couple of times a week (i hope) with new videos showing my build step by step.
I first contacted JQ Sabers several months ago looking for a medium priced kit-style saber to be my first ever Lightsaber.
Susan and i discussed a few options but in the end i went for the Luke Hero
I also added a few extras such as the Decor Kit (which i believe adds the nice control box and leds etc) and an accent led for the pommel.
I ordered a PC-L from TCSS before i'd even chosen my saber, a mistake as it turns out, for only a few weeks later it became unlocked, just as my hilt arrived.
So i sent it back to MH to be reflashed and in the mean time i bought a VV stunt saber and converted it to a Super-StuntTM
with a Vader ANH fx board.
With that experience under my belt I am keen to complete my Luke Hero now that I have all the parts I need.
FYI shipping to Australia takes months, once your mail gets to our borders they strap it to a Kangaroo and send it on its way.
I'm not sure how instructional these will end up being but I will try to show everything I do so at least you will get to see some things rather than just reading about them.
I will do my best.
So it Begins here:The Build LogNote: red titles are click-able to view videos and all pictures are click-able to view larger versionsPart 1 - An Overview of Parts
This video will be pretty boring for most but I still think its important none-the-less. You cant do it without all the bits right?
Not everything is shown in this picture but it gives a general idea of the head explosion i had when it arrived Parts ListJQ Sabers
- Luke Hero Hilt
- 36" media blasted maximum brightness blade
- pommel insert
- control box
- brass top piece of control box
- green and red triangle led's with resistors
- pommel accent led with resistor
- control card
- 2 x decorative brass screws
- slide switch for main activation
- momentary tactile switch for aux
- 2.1mm recharge port
- triangle belt ring
- kill key
- premium speaker
- speaker holder
- ledengine 5w green
- battery holder
- 2 x 14500 lithium ion Trustfire rechargeable batteries
- copper heat sink
- thermal tape
- lens and lens holder
- blade plug
- blade retention screw (grub/set screw) and Allen Key
TCSSJust going to throw it out there, we have 3 versions of the Petit Crouton, I like to refer to them as PC-L(no optional fonts) PC-U (limited to 1 extra font) and PC (new reflashed version)
- ribbed chassis system
- low footprint stand
Here is a few pictures of the ribbed chassis system by SaberWorksPart 2 - Control Box
This video is of the gluing of all the switches and LEDs into the control box. I am not wiring them until the end of the build.
Again, this is probably a bit boring but i am trying to document each part so whoever wants to see it can do so.
Here are some pics of the Box after it has set overnight.Part 3 - Wiring
This video is pretty basic. I simply solder the 3 wires required for my triangle accent LEDs to the Petit Crouton.
You will get an idea of what its like to solder to a PC for the first time. I take it nice and slow and try to do it as neatly and well planned as possible.
I colour code my wires so that I wont need to refer to the writing on the board when the time comes to wire up my control box.Part 4 - The Y Factor
You guessed it, more wiring. This time I make a simple Y junction for use with my recharge port.Part 5 - Recharge Port
This video is just the wiring of the recharge port, battery pack etc. I simply followed the diagram given in the PC manual.
In the end it wasn't as simple as I had hoped. I fried my recharge port, I assume by over heating it with the soldering iron.
It took a few days to get the time to go and purchase a new one from the local electronics store.
But this time I soldered it without destroying it.
My recharge port is accessed from the bottom of the saber, through the centre of the pommel insert.
Just enough wire length is left so that the pommel can be set aside to access the SD card.Part 6 - Main LED
The main LED, a LEDengine 5w green, is wired to the LED pads on the PC.
In this video you see me just twist the wires and solder them directly between the LED and the PC.
After making the video my quick connectors FINALLY arrived and I have since changed the wiring to allow the easy connect/disconnect.Part 7 - The Chassis
In this video I demonstrate the ingenuity of the SABERWORKS ribbed chassis system.
I try my best to describe how I have shaped the chassis to suit my components.
I was very impressed with the chassis and I must thank Ki-Adi for supplying me with one.
It was much easier than trying to make my own. For my first build, this was so usefulPart 8 - Final Assembly
Time to put the electronics inside the hilt and wire up the control box and speaker.
With that done, the control box just needed to be secured to the hilt and the decorative features glued into place.Part 9 - Final Video
This last video is a demo/review of the completed saber. I also show how to access the SD card, thanks to LDM for the idea.
blinds closed with flash_________________________blinds open__________________________blinds closed + no flash = blurrrrBonus Video - Demo with Blade In
Thank you, and Good Night