Re-assembly of the hilt is basically just like doing a sound conversion, but I'll cover it anyway:
Line up the locating tabs on the soundboard housing with the slots in the blade socket, and re-tape it with a piece of masking tape, like it originally had. slide the assembly back into the hilt from the emitter end:
Make sure the switch wires are easy to get to, and then pull them out of the opening. I use mini needle nose pliers for that:
Now is a good time to check it, so add the battery pack and the pommel cap:
Test it by touching the pre-tinned ends of the positive wires together:
Solder the switch wires to the positive leads from the battery pack and the led:
Shrink the heat shrink, and install the switch box:
Re-install the gold plate on the switch box:
I used my hot glue gun to glue it back on....if it ever needs to be removed, it just needs to be heated up with a hair dryer or heat gun, and it'll come right off.
Re-install the bottom gold button plate:
and hot glue the button back on.
Install the top gold button plate, and the button bezel:
Again, a little hot glue in the bezel to hold the gold/copper button in place:
Install the pins:
Only one thing remains:
Drilling and tapping for a blade retention screw:
I'll use an 8-32 x 3/8" button head cap screw for this, along with a #8 lock washer:
Install the blade and tighten the screw:
Be careful not to over-tighten the screw....the threads are mostly drilled into the plastic blade holder, and will strip out if over torqued.
Check out your new FX Anakin ROTS Stunt Saber:
To improve the blade, remove the foam from the led strip, leave the diffuser, and make sure the inside is clean. Then follow this tutorial to add some polypropylene to even it out and brighten it up:http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=14080.0