US 2.0 Operational Clarification.

[MACE WINDU]

i thought so but couldn't find the dang pic

[QUI-GON JINN]

i thought so but couldn't find the dang pic

well,  there you go!  I had one in my photobucket account,  so I thought i'd share.  I also have the pdf of the US v1.0 instructions on my hardrive.

[JANGO FETT]

Soon to be in the new manual

Look at the solder tabs.  If you turn the board so that the tabs are at the top. They are (From Left to right)

1. Battery Positive, 2. Battery Negative, 3. LED Negative, 4. LED Positive, 5. Speaker Positive, 6. Speaker Negative,
7. Switch,  8. Switch.

[MACE WINDU]

thanks a bunch guys, got it all wired up and programed, darn near ready to go into my MHS hilt. Had a little hickup in the programing part but it was mostly the switch so I used one of the guarded mom switches that dt sent sid. worked awesome.

[Delmustator]

My 30 minutes with the new USB 2.0...

To say that the USB 2.0 is temperamental is an understatement... 

I pulled my USB1.1 equipped Qui-Gon Jinn out to swap the 1.1 for the 2.0. Soldered everything up nice and clean on the workbench with the board firmly secured (saw the video). Inserted my (2) freshly charged UltraFire LC 14500s into the exiting battery holder. Nothing... I'm like ok, let's try this again. Using a flat head screwdriver, I interrupted the power to the board. Still notta.. Checked the voltage at the board, 8.4 vdc, ok.. Re-checked my solder points, all looks nice and clean. Interrupted the power again.. FINALLY.. bootup..

So I go into the menu to set the LED type, strobe effects, sound level, and motion detection levels. I get to Lux Red and it shuts down. So I go back to step 1 (now known as Battery Interruptus). I do this several times only to be greeted by shut down or lock up in the menu (with lights and sound going just fine but can't shut down).

So back to step 1, this time I was talking to myself, called it a biotch, it got pissed off and shut down.. GRRRRRRR!!!!!!

So I replace my momentary switch with a brand new one. FINALLY success in getting the menu settings saved..

The USB2.0 does not like ANY kind of power fluctuation or switch bounce.. I'm wondering if there are some high quality battery holders out there, other than the typical plastic. While the batteries appeared to be nice and tight in the holder. I did get some fluctuation a couple times. I don't think I touched the battery pack but might have. Gotta get some better momentary switches also. These radio shack switches don't cut the mustard..

DT, Before you give me the slap, I did read this thread. Just sharing my experience..

[darth morbius]

Del I'm not going to slap you man.

The switch bounce is the issue.  You can fix the issue by making a debounce circuit using a resistor and a capacitor. An IC called a Schmitt Trigger can help too, because using just the Capacitor and the resistor can cause switch delays.

[Goodman]

To say that the USB 2.0 is temperamental is an understatement... 

For accuracy's sake, I would insert "without a proper low bounce switch" after "USB 2.0" in your statement above.

Like DT said, WITH a proper switch, such as the tactile switches at TCSS, the main problems go away. I just tested a friend's board up close and it worked fantastically when rigged like shown in Ultra's video.

[Ultra]

I just made a video of the board using a Radio Shack switch, part 275-1571.  It's uploading to my channel now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8BOA0_FfGY

[Senti Xamas]

I didn't get in on the run of these, but if i run across one sometime, what are the dimensions of the board itself?

[MACE WINDU]

it's the same size as v1.0, or the roughly the same size as an mr board

[darth morbius]

I didn't get in on the run of these, but if i run across one sometime, what are the dimensions of the board itself?

Look around the forums, I'm sure it will pop up like a nasty zit on prom night if you look.

[QUI-GON JINN]

I didn't get in on the run of these, but if i run across one sometime, what are the dimensions of the board itself?

You can still get one from TCSS,  y'know....

[Kyp Durron]

Yep, and I think Alex has a couple in stock at the Ultrasabers site as well.



-Joclad

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

My boards still havent arrived but I'm wondering what the recommendation is for people who already have MHS hilts...ya know the normal kind with the already predrilled mounts for the original standard TCSS switches that apparently are too 'bouncy' Considering that the polls way back suggested a fair number of users wanted to use US 2.0 with MHS I imagine some people might have already bought MHS hilts with switch holes machined for the conventional switches?

Personally I came this ->.<- close a month ago to ordering two custom-grooved MHS hilts with multi-tone powercoating for use with my 2 US 2.0s that would have been drilled to used the conventional red TCSS mom switch along with the 'in universe looking' aluminum nut and the only reason I didnt already make that investment was because I'm still waiting on the Oppressor emitters [already bought the IK pommels] so I really am hoping for a way to still make the design work with US 2.0 and Lux V and not have to go backwards to Lux III and MR sound.

I'm hoping there is a solution for conventional MHS hilt/switch combinations?

[Ultra]

Did you know you can gut a "standard" plunger style switch and put a tactile switch in it?  Then it will mount the exact same way and use the standard machined switch holes.  It's fairly easy to do, and if you are not mechanically inclined, I'm sure you could sweet talk one of the forum guys to do it.