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346811 Posts in 19407 Topics by 5048 Members - Latest Member: mkvenner September 09, 2010, 04:18:52 PM
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Author Topic: US 2.0 Operational Clarification.  (Read 6112 times)
Ultra
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« Reply #30 on: November 27, 2008, 10:13:49 PM »

Can we rename this thread since this isn't technically a "problem" per se?
« Last Edit: November 27, 2008, 10:18:09 PM by DARTH TYRANUS » Logged

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« Reply #31 on: November 27, 2008, 10:17:31 PM »

Can we rename this thread since this isn't technically a "problem" per se?

Consider it done boss! Cool
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« Reply #32 on: November 27, 2008, 10:26:20 PM »

Dub post... Is this better? Grin
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« Reply #33 on: November 27, 2008, 10:36:59 PM »

Any idea if it will work with a pack of 4 Ni-MH AAA batteries, like this one?

And does this (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SPST-Momentary-Guarded-switch-with-red-button-P257.aspx) count as a "high-quality momentary switch"?
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« Reply #34 on: November 27, 2008, 10:56:07 PM »

SOMEONE has not been paying attention in class... Grin

Short answer that could have been figured out by actually READING the topic...

Yes.
« Last Edit: November 27, 2008, 11:08:07 PM by DARTH TYRANUS » Logged
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« Reply #35 on: November 27, 2008, 11:22:17 PM »

SOMEONE has not been paying attention in class... Grin

Short answer that could have been figured out by actually READING the topic...

Yes.

Thank you! Actually, I did read the whole thread before posting my question(s). It's just that I'm exceptionally dense.  Grin

I suppose I should have interpreted this...
You can use a min of 4.5 volts, even alkalines and the board will work fine.
...to imply that NiMHs are fine.  Cry And I suppose any switches sold at TCSS are "quality switches."  Undecided

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« Reply #36 on: November 27, 2008, 11:29:42 PM »

*No comment*
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« Reply #37 on: November 27, 2008, 11:29:56 PM »

That pack will work fine, it's 4.8 volts.

Those guarded momentaries will work fine once the board is configured.  However, they aren't "low-bounce" so you might get kicked out of the setup menu a couple of times if you aren't very precise with your button presses.

The tactile momentary that Tim sells is a better switch, and it's alot cheaper, too.
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« Reply #38 on: November 27, 2008, 11:55:54 PM »

I know how tall the...er...taller tactile momentary switch TCSS sells, but what is the size of the smaller tactile switch that's shaped like a flat square?

I just decided to buy two of these boards instead of one, since I apparently cannot curb my enthusiasm. heh.
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« Reply #39 on: November 28, 2008, 12:16:18 AM »

i guess i dont have to worry about this since dt is installing the us 2 in my overlord?
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« Reply #40 on: November 28, 2008, 12:21:27 AM »

Thanks for the confirmation on the battery pack, Ultra. (And thanks for resisting the urge to comment, Darth Tyranus. Grin) I was attracted to those tactile switches, but as an absolute beginner, I have no idea how I would attach one of them to a hilt.  Huh The guarded switches were just easier for me to wrap my tiny head around. But maybe for the initial setup process, I can use one of the simple momentary switches I've salvaged from a couple of old Hasbros, then "switch" to the guarded switch. I'm not sure what "low-bounce" means, but from what I've read on this thread, I should be able to work something out, even if I get kicked out of the setup menu a few times.
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« Reply #41 on: November 28, 2008, 12:34:48 AM »

i guess i dont have to worry about this since dt is installing the us 2 in my overlord?

Not to worry... I use Li-Ions for all Ultra Sound Installs, be they 1.0, 1.1, or 2.0.

Thanks for the confirmation on the battery pack, Ultra. (And thanks for resisting the urge to comment, Darth Tyranus. Grin) I was attracted to those tactile switches, but as an absolute beginner, I have no idea how I would attach one of them to a hilt.  Huh The guarded switches were just easier for me to wrap my tiny head around. But maybe for the initial setup process, I can use one of the simple momentary switches I've salvaged from a couple of old Hasbros, then "switch" to the guarded switch. I'm not sure what "low-bounce" means, but from what I've read on this thread, I should be able to work something out, even if I get kicked out of the setup menu a few times.

Okay, I refused to comment here, but I must for this.

You just stated that you are an absolute beginner...  Then why aren't you cutting your teeth on something a bit less expensive?  I don't mean to offend, but perhaps you might want to try a hasbro install, an MR or the like first?

"Bounce" in a momentary switch is the amount of play the actuator that closes the circuit has due to lack of spring tension for the plunger.  It's basically "wiggle" in the housing that allows to contactor to close the circuit just enough to cause a multiple signal.
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« Reply #42 on: November 28, 2008, 12:48:02 AM »

Okay, I refused to comment here, but I must for this.

You just stated that you are an absolute beginner...  Then why aren't you cutting your teeth on something a bit less expensive?  I don't mean to offend, but perhaps you might want to try a hasbro install, an MR or the like first?

"Bounce" in a momentary switch is the amount of play the actuator that closes the circuit has due to lack of spring tension for the plunger.  It's basically "wiggle" in the housing that allows to contactor to close the circuit just enough to cause a multiple signal.

Thank your for explaining bounce.

Perhaps I was being overly modest in describing myself as an "absolute beginner." I have already successfully wired two kinds of Hasbro boards and an MR board. I think I'll go back to lurking mode now.
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« Reply #43 on: November 29, 2008, 10:53:17 AM »

Ok I have search stupidity and can't find the order of which the wires go to the board, I can make out the power but can't make out how the others are. Tongue
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« Reply #44 on: November 29, 2008, 10:59:54 AM »

Wiring it is the same as the first Ultrasound:
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