The chamber used two MHS chassis discs, one for inside the MHS parts, one that locked between the male and female sections. The locking one was the base, then I used brass tubes to connect them. Two of the brass tubes have the 4/40 all thread rod with nuts on the outside and glued in place. The third tube I bored out with a 1/8" drill bit, then filed it a bit with a tiny round metal file. (My 9/64" drill bit kept shredding all the way through.) I also filed the corresponding hole in the top and bottom disc to allow for the extra width. I then countersunk holes barely wider than the brass tubes into the top and bottom discs. This seemed to marry up better and look better in general.
I used 28 gauge wire. After the filing I could feed all five wires I needed through. Feeding the wires took about 45 minutes per chamber and removed all tactile sensation from my fingertips. It was that tight. (I was glad I did this before I mounted the crystal. I wouldn't have been able to grab it well enough. I even had to remove the other brass tubes and 4/40 rod to hold it right.)
For the mount I used a standard copper pipe fitting with then ends cut down. I drilled holes through it and sanded it all down to remove the pretty finish.
I used a less-than-efficient way to mount the crystal and LED's, but it worked:
The LED's are mounted in a penny. I cut it down to fit inside the larger end of my fitting, then cut 3 holes for my 3 LED's, placed them and wired them. I used the top I'd cut off the narrow end of the fitting to hold the penny with LED's in place, filled the top most of the way up with Gorilla clear epoxy, then set the crystal in. (Some epoxy leaks down if you do it this way.) I built a framework to hold the crystal in place while it set. It mainly consisted of another chassis disc with a bigger hole drilled through the middle.
After that epoxy thoroughly set, I turned the fitting upside down, threaded the wires through the chamber base (again, the chassis disc that locks between the male and female sections), set the now-constructed crystal chamber inside an MHS part bottom-end-up, attached a double-male MHS piece to lock the disc in place, pulled the wires tight and taped them to the outside. This held the fitting tightly on the base disc (now upside-down). I then used a toothpick to apply more Gorilla epoxy through the chassis disc into the under side of the fitting, filling it completely, and having just a bit go all the way through the disc. As soon as it set I was good to go.
For this particular design, the speaker was mounted forward-facing and just below the crystal chamber. I used my dremmel to cut/sand the bottom disc into a triangle to allow more sound to pass by.
I think that's pretty much it. This is one example of how a crystal chamber can add a lot of work to a saber.
Topic: Awesome MHS Sith saber staff (Read 3278 times)