First Custom Saber Design -Cosantóir-

[Dimes]

After analysing salt water etching with science, I found this… ARKM's Saltwater Etching Tutorial (Stencil Method) - Part 1 of 2

I was going to just get some local services to engrave for me but I had no idea on cost, but if salt water etching means being able to do more things myself and it still looking awesome, i'm all for it.

E13azar you have given me something to research, YAY :D

Edit: After learning some, I have decided that acid etching may be the way to go so I don't have to include electricity.

[Dimes]

Hi everyone,
Can't seem to prevent my mind from getting a little too far ahead of me, but Iv'e been in some very primitive stages of planning regarding using some brass mesh, as seen in the work of smiths such as Arryck, Goodman, and Darth Ryo that i know of.

I don't think it would be overly difficult to do but I might need some assistance/suggestions on one problem in my mind. That being the fact that I would like to try and fit the mesh between the overlay and underlay, but if the fit is really snug it may be impossible to fit the mesh in.

So can anyone see any possible work arounds?

The following pic shows where I'd like the mesh to go (completely fitting into the triangle shape).



As I type this perhaps a possible solution would be to just cut a piece that would just fit in the triangle shape, but not quite sure how I would hold the mesh in place?

I may think of something a bit more extravagant but nothing is coming to mind just now, keeping nice and simple may prevail.

Thanks guys :)

EDIT: Found some local mesh it seems :D VN 50 SML Brass Fine Mesh Screen Rubes Veteran Vintage CAR Horn Horns | eBay

[E13azar]

What I would do is Dremmel the inside of the overlay just enough to make a lip for the mesh to fit in.. But I guess that depends on the thickness of the overlay and if you can access that angel easy enough. If not I would mark on the hilt where it will be and do your Dremmel there. You could also do a hole all the way throughput the mesh on the inside, and put a light in there. It also doesn't matter what shape you do the hole as long as it doesn't show from the outside.
Hope this makes sense.

[Dimes]

What I would do is Dremmel the inside of the overlay just enough to make a lip for the mesh to fit in.. But I guess that depends on the thickness of the overlay and if you can access that angel easy enough. If not I would mark on the hilt where it will be and do your Dremmel there. You could also do a hole all the way throughput the mesh on the inside, and put a light in there. It also doesn't matter what shape you do the hole as long as it doesn't show from the outside.
Hope this makes sense.

Creating a lip may not be overly difficult and it's a solid idea for sure, thickness shouldn't be an issue as long as I'm careful (i'd think). Considering where I am hoping to stick the mesh, it would probably be easiest to try thinning the 'inside' of the overlay AFTER I cut the whole shape of the overlay.

I am a bit lost on what you mean by creating a hole through the mesh on the inside, like one that doesn't go all the way through? Honestly not sure if a light could fit in, considering the thickness of the mesh.

It's a bit of a tough one though, lol.

[E13azar]

No I meant drill through the saber. Then place a led in the hole that will shine through the mesh.

[Dimes]

No I meant drill through the saber. Then place a led in the hole that will shine through the mesh.

So like through the underlay? (MHS pieces), that could be down with the other holes, i.e switch hole, etc but i'm way, way, way off electronics as well, but it's all food for thought, I guess. If all is successful i'd do some tests how light passes through the mesh (it will be very fine mesh, like .25mm).

[E13azar]

I'm betting no matter how fine, of you put a led in there it will look great. Kinda like a crystal chamber.

[Dimes]

I'm betting no matter how fine, of you put a led in there it will look great. Kinda like a crystal chamber.

I'd be happy to take your word for it too! It ramps up costs a bit but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to thrown in an accent LED to the shopping list when I grab the electronics, but i'll have to be finished with the hilt for that to happen and the way things are going that could be aaaaaaaaaages.

[Dimes]

Came up with plans for a leather wrap, the render isn't perfect but it shows what I had in mind well enough



Lemme know if anyone thinks it would end up being overkill or if they see any issues.

And Just popping in a rough render of how things stand now:



Thanks guys :)

[Dimes]

A bit more to update, I had a crack at some actual aluminium today! Unfortunately it isn't the right size so won't fit as a shroud but good enough for practice, and boy did I learn a few things!

First off here are some pics, along with a pic showing that I know how to use graph paper properly now (well almost I can't quite get those triangle shapes right :S









I figured after that very close call that I was making things a little too difficult for myself and so I stopped, (well ok like 30 mins after the close call). I only managed to get one fully cut after about 2 and a half hours, so I'm probably doing a few things wrong.

I have come to the conclusion that I won't be able to do the whole thing properly without a vice and workbench. The tool became wayyyy too jumpy when getting close to a full cut in the metal. Because I was doing everything in my hands I ended up not cutting the lines properly (e.g going over them a million times). It was way too difficult to keep the tube straight in my hand over long cuts, and some angles were pretty dangerous to attempt while working over my lap, as you can no doubt figure out thanks to my pants, lol.

I still haven't been able to get the flex shaft to work so I'll either have to call the suppliers or take it in somewhere (I seem to be missing the piece that screws the shaft onto the tool properly).

Finally I didn't use glue to hold the graph paper on the tube, only tape. Will glue really keep things in place well enough that the lines will still be there for easier sanding?

All in all a pretty happy but also a little disappointed I couldn't get through the whole thing. I think I lost about 4 disks in the process and a mandrel, thanks to the screw refusing to come off. I'll have to practice my line cutting before the real deal arrives but I hope a vice will solve most of my problems.

Thanks guys :)

[E13azar]

Done that plenty of times. I have lots of torn clothes and scars to attest.
Those screws suck. Hate them. Maybe quick disconnect? Expensive though.
Try the diamond cut wheel I suggested. Those other ones are really for sheet metal sort of jobs.
 Deffenitly hard to do so sometimes when holding.
You shouldn't cut yourself too bad unless your really pressing into the tool, or being careless.
Don't press hard let the tool work not your arms. Firm but not hard......
Tape tape tape tape tape.

[Dimes]

I was feeling way too ready after being away so I just went with what I had, lol. I'll probably try the tape method next, like the one you were referring to but as long as I can find some low adhesive stuff. I find that with the tape I have, if I stuff up placing it it rips up the ink on the graph paper if I try to remove it.

Glad you have been there though E13azar, keeps me hopeful! But yeah the wheels are pretty flimsy, it can be a good thing though! Because they grind faster and I can use them on the lines that are in really tight spots.

Still waiting on money but when I go to buy a vice and such i'll look out for some stronger wheels per your suggestion.

I didn't think I would hurt myself too bad working in a chair over my lap, but at some angles I just can't get the strength behind the tool to cut all the way through without the tool wanting to run to the next state.

Thanks for chiming in dude :)

[E13azar]

 :)

[Dimes]

Something has happened today that I am quite happy to share, my flex shaft is working!! I took it in to the store from which I bought it and of course it was the easiest solution, but regardless of that I am very happy because it has meant I could try things again :D. So I just continued from where I stopped last but without graph paper, so that is why things are a bit wonky.

The results:







So anyone reading this that isn't sure about how handy a flex shaft would be GET IT!!! It has made things a million times easier, so much so that I don't think I need a vice or workbench now.

There is some bad news to go with this good news in that I had to stop because the shaft began to vibrate like crazy and started to become quite hot. Hopefully the issue is a one off, but I stopped just in case. Of course I'll try again tomorrow!

Thanks guys :)

[COUNT DOOKU]

If your flexshaft is not kept relatively straight, it puts a lot of pressure on the inner cable and will wear it down much more quickly. I'd be willing to bet that is where your heat and vibration was coming from.