Is this possible: 3A Power from NB using 2x PEx

[LUMINARA UNDULI]

It was a joke :)).

However, what I can say is that using the 1ohm eliminates the false swing problem which was what I was suggesting to XSaberX to eliminate his issue.

[PhoenixJedi]

It was a joke :)).

However, what I can say is that using the 1ohm eliminates the false swing problem which was what I was suggesting to XSaberX to eliminate his issue.

It used to be true though! 1 ohm does work however. If he wants the max power the LEDs can take though, he needs to do the calculation for exact resistance and go to mouser for the resistor.

[LUMINARA UNDULI]

I believe that is what he is already doing and is having false swings. 

[PhoenixJedi]

Would this have any impact on the false swing triggers? For instance I have a NB2 powering a tri-cree RGrB. I am using the red for FOC (with a .54ohm resistor). The green and blue are wired in parallel with a .25ohm resistor. If I don't use the resistor for the 2 primary dice, I start getting false swings even adjusting the drive. However using the resistor limits the current, so that the max the 2 ever pull is about 1500-1600ma - without the resistor I can get 2000ma but with false swings. I'd like to drive them fully at 2000ma (1000ma each), and I wonder if splitting the die with this method will help at all?

Do me a favor. Plug in the green die only to a 1000mA source and check the voltage it's running at?

[XsaberX]

Thanks for all the help! I'm not going to be able to work with this for a bit of time - probably a week at least, if not more. I'm also not going to tear down the saber again, especially since it's working fine, until I'm all set with a PEX and such before doing further testing. I'll report back if I find anything new for sure.

[PhoenixJedi]

Thanks for all the help! I'm not going to be able to work with this for a bit of time - probably a week at least, if not more. I'm also not going to tear down the saber again, especially since it's working fine, until I'm all set with a PEX and such before doing further testing. I'll report back if I find anything new for sure.

Well what I'm thinking is you have a green die with a very high fV. Some of them can be around 4v. One of the reasons i like to use rebels.

[XsaberX]

Thanks for all the help! I'm not going to be able to work with this for a bit of time - probably a week at least, if not more. I'm also not going to tear down the saber again, especially since it's working fine, until I'm all set with a PEX and such before doing further testing. I'll report back if I find anything new for sure.

Well what I'm thinking is you have a green die with a very high fV. Some of them can be around 4v. One of the reasons i like to use rebels.

I hear you - it's a good thought. I did originally use a tri rebel RGrB and then a tri cree BBW, and then finally switched to the tri cree RGrB - If I lowered resistance on any of these LEDs enough to get close to 2amps total, I would get false swings coming in pretty quickly - it's even true with a different saber I have running 2 red die (meaning I have to keep the amperage at around 1600ma or less, or false swings start up within a few minutes) - but I'll try to get more specific with metering and matching the forward voltage exactly, and also see if the PEX will actually allow driving without the false swings, when I have the chance.

[LUMINARA UNDULI]

Thanks for all the help! I'm not going to be able to work with this for a bit of time - probably a week at least, if not more. I'm also not going to tear down the saber again, especially since it's working fine, until I'm all set with a PEX and such before doing further testing. I'll report back if I find anything new for sure.

Well what I'm thinking is you have a green die with a very high fV. Some of them can be around 4v. One of the reasons i like to use rebels.

I've found exactly the opposite.  We had significantly more false swings when we were using rebels than we do now using the Tri-CREE XP-E2s with single cell solutions.

[Justintmars]

Thanks for all the help! I'm not going to be able to work with this for a bit of time - probably a week at least, if not more. I'm also not going to tear down the saber again, especially since it's working fine, until I'm all set with a PEX and such before doing further testing. I'll report back if I find anything new for sure.

Well what I'm thinking is you have a green die with a very high fV. Some of them can be around 4v. One of the reasons i like to use rebels.

I've found exactly the opposite.  We had significantly more false swings when we were using rebels than we do now using the Tri-CREE XP-E2s with single cell solutions.

I agree, i have done around 60 rebels in the Prizm installs I been doing with a tenergy 2600 mah batt. W/ Tri rebels and running color mixes w/ blue and green you have to run the combined drive to under 1500 mah or you start to get random swings only a few minutes into use.
Tried one w/ a Tri  cree..
Can drive it higher and run longer w/ the same set up

[XsaberX]

Thanks for all the help! I'm not going to be able to work with this for a bit of time - probably a week at least, if not more. I'm also not going to tear down the saber again, especially since it's working fine, until I'm all set with a PEX and such before doing further testing. I'll report back if I find anything new for sure.

Well what I'm thinking is you have a green die with a very high fV. Some of them can be around 4v. One of the reasons i like to use rebels.

I've found exactly the opposite.  We had significantly more false swings when we were using rebels than we do now using the Tri-CREE XP-E2s with single cell solutions.

I agree, i have done around 60 rebels in the Prizm installs I been doing with a tenergy 2600 mah batt. W/ Tri rebels and running color mixes w/ blue and green you have to run the combined drive to under 1500 mah or you start to get random swings only a few minutes into use.
Tried one w/ a Tri  cree..
Can drive it higher and run longer w/ the same set up

I third this - although my sample size is much smaller than you guys ;)

Does the Prizm (and I guess CS2 also) have a on-board PEX for each color channel? This would save me from an unnecessary attempt with a PEX on the NB2...

[Justintmars]

Thanks for all the help! I'm not going to be able to work with this for a bit of time - probably a week at least, if not more. I'm also not going to tear down the saber again, especially since it's working fine, until I'm all set with a PEX and such before doing further testing. I'll report back if I find anything new for sure.

Well what I'm thinking is you have a green die with a very high fV. Some of them can be around 4v. One of the reasons i like to use rebels.

I've found exactly the opposite.  We had significantly more false swings when we were using rebels than we do now using the Tri-CREE XP-E2s with single cell solutions.

I agree, i have done around 60 rebels in the Prizm installs I been doing with a tenergy 2600 mah batt. W/ Tri rebels and running color mixes w/ blue and green you have to run the combined drive to under 1500 mah or you start to get random swings only a few minutes into use.
Tried one w/ a Tri  cree..
Can drive it higher and run longer w/ the same set up

I third this - although my sample size is much smaller than you guys ;)

Does the Prizm (and I guess CS2 also) have a on-board PEX for each color channel? This would save me from an unnecessary attempt with a PEX on the NB2...

It does!

[XsaberX]

Thanks for all the help! I'm not going to be able to work with this for a bit of time - probably a week at least, if not more. I'm also not going to tear down the saber again, especially since it's working fine, until I'm all set with a PEX and such before doing further testing. I'll report back if I find anything new for sure.

Well what I'm thinking is you have a green die with a very high fV. Some of them can be around 4v. One of the reasons i like to use rebels.

I've found exactly the opposite.  We had significantly more false swings when we were using rebels than we do now using the Tri-CREE XP-E2s with single cell solutions.

I agree, i have done around 60 rebels in the Prizm installs I been doing with a tenergy 2600 mah batt. W/ Tri rebels and running color mixes w/ blue and green you have to run the combined drive to under 1500 mah or you start to get random swings only a few minutes into use.
Tried one w/ a Tri  cree..
Can drive it higher and run longer w/ the same set up

I third this - although my sample size is much smaller than you guys ;)

Does the Prizm (and I guess CS2 also) have a on-board PEX for each color channel? This would save me from an unnecessary attempt with a PEX on the NB2...

It does!

Thanks

[Merik]

not that pad, see below. The best is really to stack a PEx transistor on top of the on-board one, it's more elegant and a huge space saver.

Does this also work to double-up with the onboard PeX on PC3/CF7 for channels 2 & 3 (without CeX)? What if I wanted to put a 4A draw on one of these channels?  If I had good battery and cooling solutions, could the board handle it 7+ volts at over 4 amps?
 
(Burnt toast here I come.)

[erv]

you could, technically speaking but the watt dissipated would be very high. If you have the right cooling solution why not.